Tailored Training Tips for Your Family!
This page will grow as we move along with the training process. Here are a few videos and tips to get you started!
1. Puppy Mouthing
2. How to teach your dog to use impulse control, by waiting for his food bowl:
3. Teaching Sit and Wait At The Door
1. video
2. Podcast and written instructions
4. How to Train “Go to Place”
The following is from the book, Control Unleashed, by Leslie McDevitt These 5 steps explain how you can teach Huck to “Go to Place”:
- Get a mat, blanket, dog bed, or towel – one that your dog has not seen before – and examine it as if it were the most interesting thing in the world. Then, without saying anything to your dog, put it on the floor near you. The second that your dog shows any interest (by looking at it, sniffing it, putting a paw on it), click or verbally mark the behavior, and put a treat on the mat.
- As long as your dog continues to interact with the mat, keep on marking behaviors and putting treats on the mat. A dog that has been shaped before will quickly start offering various behaviors to see what gets rewarded. Any behavior offered on the mat is worthy. My preference is down, but I also want to reward sits or any other behaviors the dog is offering on the mat. So I use at least two kinds of treats when I train Go to Place. The highest value treat is for downs, the lesser value is for anything else. That way a dog does not learn that any behavior on the mat is wrong or unrewardable but that a down gets the better reward. It took my last puppy about three minutes to figure out that downs on a mat got cheese-flavored popcorn while sits on a mat got kibble; it was downs from then on.
- Once the dog is offering the desired behavior on the mat, reward him in position, then give your release cue, and encourage him off the mat. You have various options here. You could call him, you could throw food a distance from the mat and tell him to get it, or (if he has become glued to the mat) you could walk him off with the leash.
- The second the dog leaves the mat, all clicking, praising, and treating ends. Stand quietly and wait. Most dogs at this point will go back to the mat in an effort to restart the game. When they do, throw treats on the mat. Continue to reward everything, giving the highest value treat for a down. Remember that at this point in the game, you are rewarding the dog for thinking about the mat and returning to it. Don’t wait for a down or any other particular behavior. Make sure he understands that it’s the behavior of returning to the mat that is getting rewarded. Each time he returns to the mat, mark it, and treat him on the mat. Each time you release him from the mat, step back a bit farther so he has to take another step or two to get back to the mat to restart the game. It should not take long for the dog to figure out that no matter what you are doing, he will continue receiving rewards if he stays on the mat until you release him.
- When the dog is committed to being on the mat, you can start increasing the time between rewards. If he leaves the mat before you give a release cue, pick up the mat for a minute and ignore him, then give him another chance. If he is confidently remaining on the mat until your release cue, you can start taking little steps around him. If you have an excitable dog, start by just bending your knees as if you are about to take a step. After each little movement you make, return and reward the dog if he has remained on the mat. It should not take long for the dog to figure out that no matter what you are doing, he will continue receiving rewards if he stays on the mat until you release him.
Eventually three things will happen:
- He will figure out that downs are the most rewarded behavior on mats.
- He will be able to move a reasonable distance away from you to the mat.
- He will be confident remaining on the mat until you release him.
Why Do We Teach This Behavior??
--> The potential applications are endless!
--> The potential applications are endless!
- You can take a mat anywhere.
- You can use a mat to help generalize or transfer behaviors.
- You can send your dog to his mat when you let your guests in the door, or send your dog to a mat while you are eating dinner.
- You can use a mat to practice distance work in your living room or anywhere else.
- You can make a pattern of mats and send your dog to them while practicing.
- You can use a mat to teach fast downs and then transfer that behavior.
- If your dog has the zoomies or other impulse-control issues such as grabbing your pant legs or biting you while running, you can place a mats and send Huck to it.
- Here are some great options for "Mutt Mats"!
5.Teach Your Pup to Go to Bed on Cue.
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This video shows you how to teach your puppy to go to bed in his crate on cue. It's a simple but gradual process that requires finding your puppy's biggest reward motivator. As you'll see, if you encourage your puppy with the proper praise and reward, they will very quickly learn to make the right choices all by themselves!
Here is an excellent written (and podcast) explanation of how to do this in detail. |
6. Teaching Your Dog to Stop Jumping
Why Dogs Jump
Dogs jump for many reasons. Don’t we like to see people’s faces when we say hello? Jumping while greeting is a great way for a dog to get your attention. Some dogs will jump from sheer excitement. Ever feel so excited that you just want to leap around? Excitement produces physical energy and this energy has to go somewhere. On the other side of the coin – some dogs will jump because they feel uneasy when someone comes into the house. Jumping becomes a controlling/coping mechanism that allows the dog to deal with the new intrusion. - Victoria Stilwell
How Do I Stop My Dog From Jumping Up?
Dogs jump for many reasons. Don’t we like to see people’s faces when we say hello? Jumping while greeting is a great way for a dog to get your attention. Some dogs will jump from sheer excitement. Ever feel so excited that you just want to leap around? Excitement produces physical energy and this energy has to go somewhere. On the other side of the coin – some dogs will jump because they feel uneasy when someone comes into the house. Jumping becomes a controlling/coping mechanism that allows the dog to deal with the new intrusion. - Victoria Stilwell
How Do I Stop My Dog From Jumping Up?
- The best way to stop your dog from jumping is to ignore him while he is in the act of jumping.
- Each time he jumps up at you, turn your back.
- Do not look at, talk to, or touch him at any time and fold your arms in front of you so that you become boring.
- When he stops jumping, wait for three seconds of "four paws on the floor" and reward your dog's self-control with your attention.
- If he jumps again, repeat the exercise.
- Practice this with friends and family members for consistency.
Troubleshooting:
If your dog is jumping from pure excitement then it is wise to manage your environment by not allowing the dog to greet people when they first come through the door. Keep your dog behind a baby gate and don’t allow him to greet until he is calm. Be consistent. Don’t allow the dog to jump up on you when greeting and expect him not to jump up on guests when they come into the house. Mixed messages are confusing and unfair.
One of the best ways you can teach a dog or dogs not to jump, especially when people come through the front door, is to teach them to do something else instead of the jumping behavior. The energy has to go somewhere, so if it can be redirected into another behavior such as teaching the dogs to go to a mat or area and stay there until guests have entered and everyone has calmed down, then allow them to greet in a calm manner, this still allows the dogs to expend energy, but in a controlled way.
If your dog is unconfident around guests and jumps to be controlling, do not allow your dog to greet your guests. Put him in a place where he can be calm and confident. When guests are seated allow your dog to come in and say hello.
Q & A
Problem: When I try ignoring my dog’s jumping, it gets worse!
Solution: Sometimes the dog jumps harder and higher to get your attention. This is known as an extinction burst. What has worked before is no longer getting attention so the dog tries harder. Be persistent because eventually he will give up! Remember ignore the crazy and reward the calm.
Problem: My dog only jumps on guests, and I am having a hard time stopping the behavior when they come over.
Solution: Manage your environment by putting your dog in another room or keeping him behind a baby gate until he is calm. Then walk him up to your guests on leash and teach him to sit in front of them instead of jumping on them. When he is good at greeting appropriately on leash try the same technique off leash.
Related Reading:
If your dog is jumping from pure excitement then it is wise to manage your environment by not allowing the dog to greet people when they first come through the door. Keep your dog behind a baby gate and don’t allow him to greet until he is calm. Be consistent. Don’t allow the dog to jump up on you when greeting and expect him not to jump up on guests when they come into the house. Mixed messages are confusing and unfair.
One of the best ways you can teach a dog or dogs not to jump, especially when people come through the front door, is to teach them to do something else instead of the jumping behavior. The energy has to go somewhere, so if it can be redirected into another behavior such as teaching the dogs to go to a mat or area and stay there until guests have entered and everyone has calmed down, then allow them to greet in a calm manner, this still allows the dogs to expend energy, but in a controlled way.
If your dog is unconfident around guests and jumps to be controlling, do not allow your dog to greet your guests. Put him in a place where he can be calm and confident. When guests are seated allow your dog to come in and say hello.
Q & A
Problem: When I try ignoring my dog’s jumping, it gets worse!
Solution: Sometimes the dog jumps harder and higher to get your attention. This is known as an extinction burst. What has worked before is no longer getting attention so the dog tries harder. Be persistent because eventually he will give up! Remember ignore the crazy and reward the calm.
Problem: My dog only jumps on guests, and I am having a hard time stopping the behavior when they come over.
Solution: Manage your environment by putting your dog in another room or keeping him behind a baby gate until he is calm. Then walk him up to your guests on leash and teach him to sit in front of them instead of jumping on them. When he is good at greeting appropriately on leash try the same technique off leash.
Related Reading:
7. Recall (Come)
The recall cue is most important for safety and should be the first cue you teach your puppy or new dog. Building a good foundation is key to getting a reliable response.
When going through the following 4 stages make sure you are motivating and exciting so that coming back to you is always a good experience for your dog.
Set your dog up for success by making it easy for him to respond and make sure you go at your dog’s pace, only moving to the next stage if your dog is proficient.
STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue
STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play
STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside
STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside
When going through the following 4 stages make sure you are motivating and exciting so that coming back to you is always a good experience for your dog.
Set your dog up for success by making it easy for him to respond and make sure you go at your dog’s pace, only moving to the next stage if your dog is proficient.
STAGE ONE – 'Catching' or Charging Up the 'Come' Cue
STAGE TWO – Solidifying the Cue Through Play
STAGE THREE – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Inside
STAGE FOUR – Adding Vocal Cue With Hand Signal Outside
8. Teaching Leave It - Part 1
9. Teaching "Leave It" and "Take It" (Preventing Resource Guarding!)
10. Hand Targeting
Training Technique:
- Dogs are naturally curious animals, so start this technique by presenting your hand to your dog. As he goes to investigate your hand and touches it with his nose, praise and reward him.
- Take your hand away, put it behind your back, wait a second or two, and then present it again.
- Repeat this exercise until your dog is touching your hand whenever you present it.
- When your dog is good at this task, start adding the word 'touch' as he goes to touch your hand with his nose. After many repetitions you will find that he will respond as soon as you ask him to 'touch.'
- Try this exercise with both hands so that he gets used to touching either one.
- When he is reliably touching your hand, use this cue around the home. Call your dog to come to you, and as he gets close, extend your hand and ask him to 'touch.'
- Every touch should be rewarded at this point--some with praise and others with a treat.
- When your dog is responding well indoors, take the exercise outside where there are more distractions.
- Gradually increase the distance between you so that your dog has to travel farther to touch your hand.
Why Does My Dog Need To Know This?
The ‘Touch’ cue can also be used if you want your dog to touch other things with his nose such as an object or toy. It can be taught as part of a retrieval exercise or if you want your dog to close a door or switch on a light. This cue is regularly taught to dogs that are being trained to assist people in various ways. ‘Touch’ can also be used to distract dogs that are nervous or fearful of certain situations. Teaching your dog to play the ‘touch’ game by extending your hand to your dog, rewarding him for touching it and repeating the exercise until the perceived fear has passed, gives him something positive to focus on rather than the person or situation that makes him nervous.
The ‘Touch’ cue can also be used if you want your dog to touch other things with his nose such as an object or toy. It can be taught as part of a retrieval exercise or if you want your dog to close a door or switch on a light. This cue is regularly taught to dogs that are being trained to assist people in various ways. ‘Touch’ can also be used to distract dogs that are nervous or fearful of certain situations. Teaching your dog to play the ‘touch’ game by extending your hand to your dog, rewarding him for touching it and repeating the exercise until the perceived fear has passed, gives him something positive to focus on rather than the person or situation that makes him nervous.